Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – little-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
