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When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small place securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary triumph.